On June 9th 2008, Derek Dunfee broke two bones in his leg while surfing Cloudbreak, a surf spot off Tavarua island,Fiji. 5 ½ months after Derek’s injury, Derek caught the winning 2008/2009 Billabong XXL paddle-in wave at Mavericks.
This short film shows what happened in those 5 1/2 months leading up to Derek’s XXL winning wave and includes recent footage of Derek and friends surfing big waves.